Another Summer Sun, this time a nightgown.

Summer Sun Nightie

I drafted a Summer Sun Dress for me this afternoon. 

Not really a style a big girl like me can get away with for day wear,

but a great cool nightgown.

I added a center pleat as I did with Fern's dress.

By placing the pattern about 3 inches from the fold of the fabic when cutting the front.

Then stitching the top few inches of the pleat, down the center line of the front.

If I was slimmer I'd make this into a nursing gown,

by cutting slits into the fold lines in the pleats.

Directions for drafting this pattern for any size

are HERE.

Holidays ...Day 2 and another Summer Sun Dress

 Can you see the bruise on her cheek?

It's getting more colourful.

This is what happens when you walk in front of a heavy wood swing without looking!

 I made Fern a Summer Sun Dress too.

As Fern is developing a figure I've added a center front pleat to give a little room for growth.

I placed the pattern a couple of inches away from the fold to leave enough fabric for a center pleat.

Then constructed the dress the same as the other Summer Sun Dress

The instructions for drafting this pattern yourself are HERE

 It was time for the photo shoot.

Someone else wanted to muscle in!

 Heather was determined!

 So here is Heather and Fern modeling Fern's new Summer Sun Dress

I better go and do some housework and shopping.

The last two days of creativity have left the house looking not so good!

Yours in Creative goodness,

Tracy

Draft it Yourself - Summer Sun Dress or Top

 

 Mad Quilter's

Draft It Yourself

Summer Sun Top or Dress

 This simple top or dress is simply drafted using direct body measurements. Start by taking a measurement just under the arms about where you want the armholes to be. Rose was 26 inches and add 2 inches for ease. It's up to you how much ease to add. A minimum would be 2 inches.

 Next measure up from that chest line to how high you want the front of the dress to be. I'm going to make Rose's 4 inches.

 Take a measurement for the straps. Measure from where you top of the dress will be to where it will be at the back. This is more of a guess than a measurement. You can shorten or lengthen if need be when you try the dress on in a fitting. You use this measurement to cut the elastic for the straps. The instructions for making the dress or top give more details of how the fabric for the straps are cut. If using 3/4 inch (2cm) wide elastic you cut the straps 2 1/2 inches wide by about double the length of the elastic. I measured 7 inches for Rose so will cut my straps 2.5inches by around 14 inches.

 Measure across the front chest to work out how wide you want the top of the dress. Rose's dress will be 8 inches across the top.
The last measurement you need is the length. I'm making Rose a dress so will measure from the top of the center front of the dress to her knees. Which was 26 inches.

Start at the top. As the dress will be cut on the fold I only need to draft half the pattern. Rose's measurement across the front was 8 inches so I halved this and drew a horizontal line of 4 inches.

 From this top line measure down to where the underarm chest line will be. Rose's measurement was 26 inches I added 2 inches for ease making it 28 inches. I divide that by 4 to get 7 inches.
Draw in a horizontal line, 1/4 of the Chest measurement.

 Use a french curve or just freehand draw a curved line to join the top of the dress to the underarm/chest line.

That was the hard part!

Add the top hem allowance of 1inch (2.5cm) and 1/4 inch ( 6mm) at the side.

Measure down the center front of the dress to the required length. Rose's was 26 inches.
At the bottom draw another horizontal line for the hem. You need to make this roomy enough for walking.

I added 5 inches to the 1/4 chest measure for my hem. Adding 5 inches adds 20 inches to the garments hem width, 10 inches to the front and to the back. You may want to play around with this. If making a top you won't need to add as much. If it's kept to under 11 inches you'll be able to cut the back and front from one width of 44 inch wide fabric. But if you cut it too narrow it won't allow much room for movement.

Next draw a line from the end of the hem line to the end of the Chest line. Measure from the underarm along this line until it's the same length as the center front.

Use a french curve or freehand curve the hemline to meet the side seam. Add a turning allowance to the hem and a side seam.

And the pattern is complete.

Excuse Rose's smile, shes very aware of her smashed front tooth.

Now cut and construct as in the Sun Top pattern.

Playing with the Sun Top pattern

 The kids are on school holidays now.

With so many willing babysitters I can nip down to the shed and play.

This is the same design as the Sun Top I made for Heather.

I drafted this one for Lilly.

 Such a lovely cool dress.

If I was smaller I'd love one of these.

 I added a lovely hand worked doily as a pocket.

Not one I made, one I bought at the op-shop for 20c

I have a bolt of this fabric and a coordinating one too.

I bought them in the op-shop in Pirie and paid $5 for each!

I'm going to make another for Rose.

I'll take some photos of the drafting.

I'll use the photos to make a photo tutorial on how to draft this simple pattern.

 So you can make one too!

I'm planning to do a lot of sewing these holidays.

If I hide down the shed I won't hear them fighting!

Better go and feed the hoards!

Yours in crafty goodness...

Tracy

How to make a dress from the Sun Top Pattern

I had a little play with the Sun Top Pattern,
this afternoon and made a couple of quick dresses.

This first dress is made by lengthening the side seam.




Simply use a ruler to extend the side seam of the top to the desired length.


Then using the base of the original pattern as a template cut a new hem line.
Then continue on with the instructions as in the original pattern



How easy is that!
I made this in less than an hour with op-shop fabrics and left over yo-yos.


This version is made by cutting the Sun Top shorter and adding a skirt.


I measured 7 cms down from the underarm and cut the top to that line.
Then I cut two skirt pieces 55cm wide by 25cm long.
I pleated the skirt piece to the top and then finished the construction as in the original pattern


There are lots of options here too.
You could gather the skirt to the top instead of pleating.
Add a few smaller pleats like I did on the popover top


A simple fabric rosette and a button add a little flare.
A tutorial for Rosettes is HERE

Summer Sun Top - Free Pattern and tutorial

Mad Quilter's 

Summer Sun Top

Size: 12 months

Requirements:
1 fat quarter of quilters cotton.
25cm of 2cm wide elastic
50cm double fold bias binding
General sewing supplies.

Pattern.
Download and Print the pattern from HERE
I host my PDF's at MediaFire this is a free fileshare and sometimes there can be difficulties downloading the file. If this is the case, you can leave me a comment with an email address and I will email the file to you. Please remember I am giving this pattern to you for free so be polite. Gosh I shouldn't have to say that but I do sometimes get a not so nicely worded request. 

Cutting:

 Cut two of the pattern pieces from the fat quarter.
And two strap pieces 6cms wide by 26cms long.
The length of the straps isn't that important as it will be gathered over the elastic.

 Cut two pieces of elastic 12cm long.

 Fold the straps in half lengthwise and stitch with a 6mm seam along the raw edge.

 Turn the straps through. I find inserting a safety pin into the seam allowance and pushing it through the tube is an easy way of doing this.

 Insert the elastic into the strap using the safety pin.

 Move the elastic in the tube so that there is a 3cm end without elastic in it. Secure the end of the elastic in the tube with some stitching.
Part of the strap does not have elastic in it. This is to reduce the bulk when you add the straps to the top.

 Gather the fabric of the strap up on the elastic. Leaving  3cms of fabric without elastic in it, secure that end of elastic in the casing.

 If you are going to embellish the top now is the time to do it.  Embellishment with a little fiddling can be added when completed.
With right sides together. Pin and sew the side seams of the top.

 Time to finish the arm hole shaping.
Apply the bias from the front. Open up the bias and align the edge to the edge of the top. Sew along the fold.
Fold the bias to the back, so that no bias tape is seen from the front.

 Pin the bias into place.

Now take it slowly and from the front sew about 6mm from the edge.
Use your hands to help keep the fabric from puckering as you sew around. Little wrinkles can be steamed out.

 Finishing with bias encloses the raw edge and makes for a nice finish to the garment.
Finish both armholes like this.

 Finish the hem.
I use some lace in this version.

You can also make a ruffle with the extra fabric from the fat quarter. As I have done on this top.

 Fold over the top edges of the top 6mm and then over again1.5cm and press.

 Insert the ends of the straps.
Sew along the folded edge catching in place the straps.

 Flip the straps up and sew along the top catching the straps in position.

 Do the same on the other side.
And your top is complete.

I offer all my free patterns with the same Copyright:
It's ok to share these patterns for free
It's ok to make things from these patterns to sell
It's not OK to sell my patterns
It's not OK to claim my work is yours.

And I have now added a little how to make two types of dresses
from this simple pattern HERE

And now you can follow THESE instructions to draft this any size you want!