Monday, 1 February 2010

Kwik Sew 3327 Nursing Gown


I don't often sew for myself.
Commercial patterns don't fit me.
They are drafted for a size B bust and I'm a lot more generous than that!
I need to adjust for my full bust, adjust for my thick waist, adjust for my short waist and my rounded shoulders!


This is my first attempt at sewing this pattern.
The fit is woefully bad.
My full bust measurement is 45 inches.
The pattern I cut was the XL and it is way too big for me, everywhere but the bust.


The XL gaping at the armholes and sagging at the neckline.
The shoulders are too big.
I was thinking about darting the armholes and neckline to get this to fit better. then decided against it.
I purchased this fabric at the op-shop for $4 and this will make a great nightie!

After doing a little reading (here) and on the advice of Lesley AKA Cupcake Mama.
I decided to take a high bust measurement and use that to determine the pattern size.
My high bust measurement is 40 inches.
On the basis of that I cut the L size


A much better fit in the shoulders, armhole and neckline.
I'm reasonable happy with the fit.
I do need to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to the next one I make as you can see the front of the gown is pulled up higher than the back and the front is a little tight across the bust and pulling the pleat open a little.
As the pleats are hiding the slits for nursing, I'd prefer they weren't pulled.


The fabric for version 2 was also found at the op-shop.
I have some really nice fabric. I want to make the sleeved version from.
I'll make a FBA on that one and I think the fit will be perfect!

I've decided I'm getting rid of the Gray.
I'm giving up on my going gray gracefully and off to the hairdressers.
I'm having a sever cut and a colour.
Long hair just doesn't suit me.
My hair gets very frizzy as it gets longer.
It's also very dry and breaks easily.

Knitted Cowl


Fan And Feather Cowl
A free pattern from Eco Crafter blog
Knitted in Cleckheaton Kaleidoscope 100% wool

A great pattern. Very easy to follow.
Works up quickly.


I bought four balls of this wool at a Spotlight sale last year.
It's a beautiful wool to work with, single ply and slightly felted.
The colour is beautiful.

Wednesday, 27 January 2010

It's time:

I'm trying to spruce up my appearance. I really can't do much about the weight right now, with a breast fed baby I'm constantly HUNGRY, I've never lost weight due to breastfeeding. Breastfeeding makes me HUNGRY and it's never for apples! Exercise is also a little difficult in these early days, I feel like Heather and I are constantly feeding. The time when I'm not feeding is taken up with all the other jobs that need doing. I've not even had time for much crafting.

In an effort to spruce up the image I cleared out four large garbage bags of clothes, two thirds of my wardrobe! I was tough, if I hadn't worn it for a while, if I didn't love it, if it didn't fit, if it was stained and if it didn't go with anything else it WENT!

This year is my year for getting rid of the daggy, for finding my style, for wearing clothes that make me feel good. No more putting off improving my wardrobe until I loose the weight. It's time to just acknowledge that I need to do something now and accept my body for the shape and weight it currently is.

I read this great article here:
How To Dress Well When You Are Overweight.
Some great ideas in there and really inspiring.

There's a lot of articles and posts on the net about planning a wardrobe.
A few I've found:

http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p2228.htm

http://www.fashionafter50.com/basic-...-planning.html

http://www.inmywardrobe.co.nz/planning.aspx

http://www.orgtoday.com/Wardrobe%20Planning.pdf

http://www.fashion-era.com/image_planning/index.htm

http://ezinearticles.com/?Basic-Ward...pes&id=2629791

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/269608...reat_wardrobe/ - video

http://jenniferskinner.blogspot.com/ - a blog about image, wardrobe and style

http://www.articlealley.com/article_74115_34.html

http://curvaliciousandlivinglarge.bl...nize-your.html - big girl planning

http://womens-fashion.lovetoknow.com...drobe_Planning

http://www.womens-business-clothes.c...-Planning.html this one is great


I've taken the first step and cleared out the wardrobe.

Next I need to work out 'my style'.
  • I need comfort, easy care, free movement, not too dressy.
  • I want to feel feminine.
  • I like long flowing lines.
  • I like simple. I don't like ruffles and frills.
  • I don't want clothes that cling to my body.
  • I feel more comfortable in modest clothes.
  • I like layers.
  • I want to get rid of black. I don't like black, I think it's aging on me. Also black is such a depressing colour.
  • I like neutrals such as brown, moss green, taupe, cream and egg shell blue.
  • I like Asian influenced clothes.
  • I like tunics worn over pants.
  • I need clothes I can nurse in.
  • I need them to look professional enough for me to teach in as I plan on returning to work soon.
  • I want my clothes to say I'm an attractive, confident and creative woman.
Now that I have cleared out the wardrobe, I need to fill it again. With pieces that reflect the points above.

Becci on Crafty Mama's recently mentioned Sewing With A Plan (SWAP). I'm always amazed when the information comes just when you need it! One of those new age saying is, 'When the student is ready the teacher will come!' Commercial clothing isn't going to suit my style, currently it's all maxi dresses and spaghetti straps. I can't wear things like that as I need to wear a bra and I don't like my straps being on show.

Sewing with a Plan, or S.W.A.P as it is often referred to, is explained here:
Sewing With A Plan

I'm planning on making 11 new garments. 6 tops, 4 bottoms and a cardigan. I'm so excited and can't wait to start. I'm looking through my magazines, searching the fabric stash, trawling the web and having a wonderful time planning my new wardrobe.

Anyone want to join me?

Saturday, 16 January 2010

Petal Skirt - FREE PDF pattern, SIze 5 and Newborn


Mad Quilter's

Petal Skirt Pattern




Click HERE for Newborn Petal Skirt PDF Pattern



Click HERE for Size 5 Petal Skirt PDF Pattern

I started by designing this skirt for Heather.
I made a second for Lilly so she wouldn't feel left out.
If you want this skirt in a different size then you can draft it yourself using the instructions for the 8 gored skirt and rounding the bottom of the pattern to form the petal shape.
It's that easy!

Printing the pattern.
Ensure the pattern is not scaled on printing.
The Newborn size prints on a single sheet.
The Size 5 is in two pieces. Match the V's to form X's and tape together to form a single pattern piece.
Both patterns have the seam allowance included.

Fabric Requirements
I used quilters cottons for both skirts.
I lined the size 5 with Quilters Muslin and the Newborn with quilters cotton.
Newborn requires very little fabric 25cms of each fabric and 40cm of lining should be plenty.
Size 5 requires two 50cm cuts of 110cm quilter's cotton.
To save fabric on the lining of the size 5, cut the lining as per the skirt.

Cutting


Cut four petals from each of the two fabrics.
From one fabric the waistband is cut. You will need to measure your waistband for it to be accurate. I find this is the best way to do this as not everyones 6mm seam is the same!

My newborn waist band was 18.5inches by 2 inches.
My Size5 waistband was 34.5 inches by 2.5 inches.

But PLEASE measure yours!! Don't cut the waist band until you have sewn the petals together!

Construction


Sew the petals together in pairs along one side.
Keeping the one fabric to the top is the best way to get them the right way.


Next sew them into sets of four
Then sew the set of four into eight.



Press the eight well. Press the seams to one side.

Preparing the lining.

SIZE 5 Instructions
Make up the lining the same way as you made the outer of the skirt.
That is cut 8 petals and sew them up in the same way as you did for the feature fabrics.

Newborn Instructions

Pin the feature fabric to the lining and cut the lining to match the petals.


At this stage measure for the waistband. Measure across the top of the petals. And cut the waistband to this measurement by 5cm for the newborn size and 6.5cm for the Size 5.


Join the first and last petal together to form a circle.

Join the Lining to form a circle too.


Pin the lining and skirt with right sides together matching the petals and seams.


Carefully sew around the hem of the skirt.
Using a 6mm seam allowance and pivoting as you go.


Clip and pink the seam allowance.
Carefully clip into the valleys, right up to the seam but not through!


Turn the skirt to the right side.
using your fingers roll out the seam and press with the iron.

Optional: topstitch close to the edge of the petals. I would do this for the Size 5, makes ironing easier and reinforces the seam



Next prepare the waistband.


Sew the short end together using a 6mm seam allowance.


Pin the waistband right side to the lining.


Stitch the waistband to the skirt. Sew with a 6mm seam allowance.


fold and press 6mm on the unsewn edge of the band.


Fold the waistband to the front of the skirt. Pin into place.


Stitch close to the folded edge.

I like to use this method to attach waistbands as I find this neater for me, if you have another method that works for you use it!

Inserting the elastic

Unpick the inside seam of the waistband.

Measure your childs waist and cut the elastic to this measurement.
NB - 36cm (That's Heathers tummy measurement.)
Size 5 - 60cms (That's Lilly's waist measurement)

Using a safety pin insert the elastic into the band.

Being careful not to twist the elastic sew the ends together.


Sew each side of the waist band seam to secure it,this also helps to prevent the elastic twisting.


Newborn Petal Skirt



Size 5 Petal Skirt

COPYRIGHT
It's ok to make these for sale
It's ok to share the pattern
please don't post the pattern on your site or anywhere else.
Please link to this blog post.
Don't sell the pattern
Don't claim it as yours.
All drafts and blocks have been kept by me to confirm this is an original pattern of mine.