Binding with Bias - METHOD ONE - machine and hand

There are a few different methods of apply binding to finish the raw edges of garments. No one method is 'right'. Like most things in garment sewing there is more than one way to do this. You may even have a different one to the ones I'm about to explain. People seem to get so caught up with the 'right' way of doing things! The right way is the one you like best and works for you!

The main function in applying binding is to neaten and finish an edge so that it does not fray with wear. The reason we use bias cut strips is because bias stretches and will sit better on curves as it will stretch to fit them.

All my samples here are done on the straight but are also applicable for working around curves. Although for apply bias to curves I recommend you pin as this helps to stop it puckering and distorting. As the bias is sewn the foot and feed dogs can cause the bias to feed unevenly resulting in puckers. Using a walking foot to apply bias will also help to prevent it stretching out and puckering.

METHOD ONE - machine and hand stitched.

Apply the bias to the right side of the fabric.

Open up the commercial bias and line up one edge to the raw edge to be bound.
Sew along the crease with a straight stitch
I find I can sew straighter when I can see where I am going so I use an open toed straight stitching foot to apply my bias. On my Bernina this is my 1/4inch foot. (no37)

A Tip From Sara said...Tracy, I've been reading through these quickly, so might be commenting on the wrong method, but I was going to say that I use foot #10 and line the blade up with the edge of the bias and then I move the needle over however far I want the stitching to be. Works really well with bias. This is how the lady at the Bernina shop told me.



Fold the bias over the edge and hand stitch it to the machine stitching you applied it with.
I use a whip stitch when I do this and usually space it to every third machine stitch.

Pros..
It's very neat from the front as no stitching is visible.
I tend to get this right the first time. When I apply with the machine I sometimes miss catching the bias which means I have to unpick sections and rework.

Cons
Some don't like the look of the hand stitching at the back.
It can get caught and pulled.
It takes longer to hand stitch the binding than machine it.