How I draft my patterns...

I start with what is known as a basic block.
It is drafted from measurements from a center line.
Once done you can file it away and use it over and over.
Many 'How to draft books' will give you directions on how to do this.
I have a lot of these books but I also did some study and have this:

My Certificate in Dressmaking and pattern Cutting.
There are many different systems for drafting patterns but most use a Basic Block.

These are the pattern pieces I drafted for the cross over back baby smock.
I often work in pencil and modify curves as I go.
I do have a french curve but it never seems to have the right curve for me!
Once I'm happy with my pencil draft I'll go over it with black pen and then add my seam allowances.
I usually do this free hand.
Saves playing around with rulers!

I'm going to draft a simple pinafore.
I start by tracing off my basic block, which is under my paper.
I just mark important points with dots.
Then I draw in my side seams from the underarm point and draw my arm holes and neckline with reference to the dots I made marking the shoulder line and neckline.

I make sure to check that the important fitting points are matching to the basic block.
With this design I want an over lap on the shoulder for the snaps.


I've cut this draft out to show you how the pieces fit into the basic block.
I've flared the side seams and added some length to create the skirt of the dress.
See how I've dotted the shoulder line?
Notice how I've dropped the neckline at the front and back?


I'm checking here my side seams are the same length.
Not bad! I got it right.


Now I've added my seam allowances.
Free hand as normal, I'm such a lazy drafts woman!
But then I'm not selling my designs, so I feel no compunction to be perfect with them.


I then often need to do some adjusting.
I make a trial garment.
I cut the front out and didn't like the shape of the neckline.
I made an adjustment on the pattern.


and cut it again.
I'm happier with this curve.


Now to make my baby pinafore.
I'm going to use an old pillowcase.


I used the frill on the hem. Waste not, want not!


Lilly's baby doll is about the size Michael was at 6 months, so here's the fit test..

I might go and have a little more of a play with the pattern.
I want to add a little to the back shoulder over lap.
I'd like to make another with just binding at the neckline, which will mean I remove the seam allowance at the neckline.
When I made this one I cut a facing.

So that is how I draft my original designs.
I don't use a commercial pattern and alter it, that is a breach of copyright, immoral and down right wrong!
I'm upset that someone would accuse me of doing so!
Just because YOU may lack the skills to draft your own original designs doesn't mean the rest of us do.